Waterway Wandings - by Peter Keen

Visiting friends or travelling to new parts of the country does not always create an anticipation of seeing canals and waterways. However sometimes factors seem to conspire to point you towards watery-based locations.

For years our friends in Scotland had asked us to go and visit their new home, but we had always put it off because of the long distance involved, it was not far short of Fort William. Eventually we decided to go ahead and off we went, the journey being fine until we were well into the Highlands at which point the rain came down in torrents. Despite the wet, we arrived at out friends' home and spent a pleasant few days visiting local clan strongholds, strolling the glens and seal watching on the shore. One day we were taken on a drive, "round the block" to look at the scenery which was stupendous, what a combination of sky, sea and mountain. Unlike in urban areas the "block" in Scotland can have a large mountain in the middle of it and the circuit can amount to many miles and take most of the day. On the last part of the journey we ended up at Fort William, in the shadow of Ben Nevis, at the entrance locks to the Caledonian Canal. There we were privileged to watch the passage of a sailing craft up through the locks on its way to the east coast (right). There were plenty of gongoozlers and a generally happy atmosphere not usually encountered on large canals. A great end to a great day.

When it was time to return to England we learned that the torrential rain on the day we had arrived had caused a landslide which had blocked the road we had used and therefore a detour would be necessary. There are very few short detours in the Highlands and we ended up going much further east than on our outward journey. On planning the route, before leaving, I had noticed a label on the map which read "Falkirk" so thought that this would be an ideal opportunity too have a look at the Wheel.

It is certainly a popular spot, teeming with people enjoying themselves, watching the wheel, taking a cruise, viewing the exhibition hall, picnicking, sitting around on the grass and taking in the fresh air. This visionary creation has certainly been a success in drawing the crowds. Unlike the frantic rides at places such as Alton Towers there is a quiet dignity about the slow revolution of the wheel as it faultlessly performs its task. Needless to say photographs were taken from every conceivable angle except, disappointingly, from the approach aqueduct which is out of bounds to the public. Another successful day.

Later in the year we spent a few days in a part of England which we had never visited before, East Anglia. Again we would go out each day to see what was available and, both being interested in painting, decided to go to Flatford Mill, the location of so many of John Constable's paintings. Although fairly large boats had been depicted in a number of his works I had never really considered the fact that there must be a fairly large waterway there to cater for them. Of course there was one, the River Stour, under the control of the Environment Agency. As a river navigation, it required locks and there was one of these within metres of three of Constable's painting sites, Flatford Mill itself, The Haywain, and his version of the dry dock, still there if a little overgrown. The lock is unusual in that it has great bracing beams at the head and tail forming rectangular arches, presumably to help to support the vulnerable lock walls which would be at the mercy of the river's current.

Another day we visited Snape Maltings. This is an old mill complex, famous for its musical facilities and concert hall set up by the modern composer Benjamin Britten. There are various sculptures around the grounds whilst the mill buildings have been converted into small businesses such as a café, book shop, art gallery, garden centre, crafts and a fully licenced hostelry. Enough to keep anyone happy. But again there was a connection with water since the mill was once powered by the adjacent River Alde. There, moored alongside was a fully restored Norfolk Wherry (right). Smaller than a Mersey Flat, this vessel was very graceful with a D-shaped transom, with one main mast and a smaller auxilliary mast aft. It had the usual winch in the bows and a cargo hatch amidships but it was definitely in a class of its own.

I had arranged to meet an ex-work colleague in Kendal for a ramble in the area. Being on the fringe of the Lake District we might have been expected to have gone up into the mountains, but instead we decided to walk the course of the Northern Reaches of the Lancaster Canal, heading southwards from the town. Since most of the canal has been filled in, the tow-path led across open fields with little indication of a canal ever having been there. Not, that is, until we came across a typical canal bridge arching over the grass instead of water (left). This was repeated a number of times as we passed more bridges, all in good repair, although nature was moving in and vegetation was gradually submerging them. On we journeyed to the village of Sedgwick where the canal crosses a steep sided valley via a very sturdy aqueduct. This is in sound condition and its channel remains although there is a dense growth of reed and marsh plants from bank to bank. Moving further on still, the canal was completely destroyed by the construction of the A590 road. Beyond this was the Hincaster Tunnel, but since this was familiar territory to both of us, we turned and retraced our steps.

I have now visited places which, a year ago, I would never have expected to see in the normal course of events. Clearly, you don't have to go out looking for waterways and things associated with them, frequently they will intrude into your life without any invitation.

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